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Correctly fitting tack is a must for your horse’s comfort, safety and your horse’s way of going. The purchase of tack for horses can be very expensive therefore it is essential that you know as much as possible before making your investment. It can be confusing selecting tack so below is some information that will help you to make informed choices. Please be aware there is no magical gadget that will replace good schooling. Therefore please check out the Training Methods section on the Rider Page for more information, click here to go to the Rider page of the website.
If you are looking for one to one advice / tuition and you live in Warwickshire I am available for private tuition. I have extensive experience of teaching, for many years I was the head instructor at a local riding school. I have also lectured up to degree level for 2 universities. I have wide experience in teaching traditional riding methods and a wide range of natural horsemanship techniques. To find out more please call Vicki Jayne Maris on 07930605544 or e-mail vmaris@tiscali.co.uk
Topics included on this page are:-
The most expensive item in the tack room will be the saddle. It is essential that the saddle fits the horse, as an ill fitting saddle will cause the horse discomfort or pain. It is unfair and dangerous to ride a horse in ill fitting saddle. A horse with back pain can become very dangerous to ride and handle. Safety is the most important thing to consider when choosing a saddle and therefore it is essential that the saddle fits the horse.
There are so many saddles available to choose from, there are: treeless saddles, synthetic saddles, traditional leather saddles, saddles for different disciplines in a wide range of styles and prices. You can purchase “off the peg” and you can have made to measure saddles. It can be very confusing.
There are many things to consider when making your selection these include:-
The best place to start is to research what is available. Coming soon will be a section that will provide you with information on new saddles available with links to websites were you can find out more information on all the latest innovations.
Your guarantee of a satisfactory saddle fitting service is to find a qualified and registered Master Saddler. The Society of Master Saddlers (UK) Ltd aims to safeguard the quality of work, services, training and qualifications of all those who work in the saddlery trade. On their website you can find lots of very useful and practical information on saddle fitting and links to finding a qualified master saddler in your area. To find out more please click here.
When you have purchased a saddle for your horse it is important to maintain it in good condition, with regular tack cleaning. There is a wide range of tack cleaning products available and it can be a bit confusing when you look along the tack shop shelves. Coming soon on this site will be links to websites were you can check out more information on these products and this should help you decide which products will be suitable for you to use.
Once you have a saddle for your horse it is essential to have regular checks that the saddle is still the correct fit for the horse, as horses do change shape and the saddle may need adjusting.
It is best to purchase a quality girth, as this piece of equipment is essential for rider safety as it attaches the saddle to the horse and helps it maintain its position. Girths are available in a wide range of styles, shapes, colours and for a range of equine disciplines. To help you select a girth for your horse this site will have links to a range of sites that will showcase the latest innovations in design and materials. The girth should be broad and smooth and fit the horse approximately one hand’s width behind the horse’s elbows. Most general purpose saddles have three girth straps and it is good practice to attach the girth to the first and third straps on each side.
Numnahs and saddlecloths provide comfort and protection for your horse or pony. Saddle cloths and numnahs also help to keep the underside of the saddle clean. Care and consideration needs to be taken when selecting a saddle cloth or numnah as they can alter the fit of the saddle and they should not be used to try to improve the fit of an ill fitting saddle. If they are allowed to crease up under the saddle, or make contact with the spine or withers they can rub or cause pressure points that bruise. There are specially designed pads to alter the fit of a saddle. These should only be used as a short term measure and with due care, with the aim for the long-term obtaining a well-fitting replacement saddle. Coming soon to this site there will be links to websites so you can check out all the latest styles, colours and designs.
There are leather and synthetic stirrup leathers available. Leather stirrup leathers can give during use therefore it is important to make sure they are swapped over to the other side of the saddle after cleaning to ensure they stretch evenly. If the leathers are only used by one rider they can become worn in the same place, so check carefully for wear and if necessary have the saddler move the buckle down 2 or 3 inches so they will last longer.
There are many different styles of stirrup irons available. For safety it is essential that you select stirrup irons that are the correct size for you. Too small and your foot could become stuck and too large your foot could slide through. And we have all seen in films the cowboy stunt of being dragged along by a foot stuck in a stirrup! In real life it is extremely dangerous if this should this happen. A correct sized stirrup should allow 1.5cm (1/2 inch) gap at one side of the rider’s boot to the inside of the stirrup iron.
Bridles are available in a range of materials leather, webbing or synthetic material. There are designs for use with a bit and bitless bridles. The three main sizes are pony, cob and full. Until you are familiar with all the parts that make up a bridle it can look a bit confusing. The best way to become familiar with understanding all the different parts of a bridle is to ask your local riding school to give you a lesson on tack and tack cleaning. Then you will not only know all about different parts of the bridle, you will know how to care for tack and how to take it apart and put it back together again! To learn how to tack up again it is worth asking your local riding school for lessons, as you can be shown step by step and be supervised while practicing on a horse that is easy to bridle. It is essential when selecting a bridle for a horse that it fits comfortably, is well made and good quality. There are many designs and styles available. Coming soon on this site will be links to other websites so you can check out the latest designs and innovations.
Nosebands have several functions they can:-
Some nosebands are not recommended to go with certain bits or equipment for example a noseband with a chin strap would not be a good combination with a bit with a curb chain. Another example a grackle noseband is not suitable to go with a standing martingale. Below is a brief overview of the most common nosebands and coming soon to this website will be links to other websites for you to check out the latest designs. Below is information on the four most common nosebands. The Cavesson Noseband This noseband helps to dress the bridle and can improve the appearance of the horse. Some are plain, some are padded and some are decorative so there is a wide selection to choose from. They are usually fitted two fingers width below the projecting check bones and with two fingers between the noseband and the nasal bone. Wider and more padded cavesson nosebands are popular for dressage and are often fitted more tightly to prevent the horse opening his mouth. The Dropped Noseband This noseband is designed to be fitted below the bit. The small wider strap is positioned across the front boney part of the horse’s nose and the narrow longer strap is fastened below the bit allowing two fingers between the strap and the horse’s chin groove. This bit is used with a snaffle bit and it is designed to prevent the horse opening his mouth or crossing his jaws. The Flash Noseband This noseband has become very popular and has a similar action to the dropped noseband. Many regard this noseband to be more comfortable for the horse than the dropped noseband. The noseband is a cavesson with loop which has a thin strap that passes through it and this thin strap is fastened below the bit. The Grackle / Mexican Noseband This noseband prevents the horse from opening his mouth and crossing his jaws and is more effective than a dropped noseband. Care needs to be taken to fit this noseband correctly.
There are many bits available. Walk into your local tack shop and you will find a confusing range of bits in a range of materials. Bits are made up of different materials e.g:- rubber, plastic, vulcanite, sweet Iron, stainless steel and copper alloys. Finding the correct bit for your horse is important. It should be the correct size and fit so it is comfortable. Bits range in size from 9 cm (3 inches) to 15 cm (6 inches) and are available in increments of 0.5 cm. These measurements are taken between the inner edges of each bit ring, when the bit is laid flat. There are many things to consider when selecting a bit these include: the size and shape of the horse’s mouth and tongue, the horse’s age, level of schooling and the hands that hold the bit. Experienced light hands can make a severe bit very mild. Inexperienced, unbalanced, heavy hands can make a mild bit very severe. A severe bit is not a substitute for correct schooling. A bit should never be a fashion item. The action and strength of a bit can also be altered or increased by the style of noseband you use. The bit works by applying pressure onto the horse in a number of places and when the horse responds the pressure should be released. Riders should aspire to using gentle pressure and never force. Bits can apply pressure not just on the jaw area: lips, tongue, bars of the mouth and roof of the mouth but also to the horse’s head: poll, nose and curb groove dependant on the bit selected. To learn more about bits you could ask your local riding school to give you a lesson, then you can learn about and handle a number of different bits and how to select and fit a bit for a horse. Below is brief information on the main families / groups of bits that you will find widely available.
The Snaffle Family has a range of different mouthpieces in a range of different materials and they range from very mild action, kind bits through to severe bits. For example a happy mouth French link snaffle is a very mild bit as the extra link that sits flat on the tongue helps to soften the contact. A single jointed snaffle is also considered a mild bit, however it has a nutcracker type action and some horses do dislike this. The mullen mouth snaffle is a gentler bit than the jointed mouthpiece as it spreads pressure across the tongue and is available in a range of materials. For a stronger horse some people use a Dr Bristol, which has a link similar to a French link but this link sits at an angle acts on the tongue in a more severe way. The Gag Family. Many gags can look similar to a snaffle bit however they are far more severe and in the wrong hands can inflict terrible injuries to a horse. Great care and skill is required when riding a horse in a gag as they act by using leverage which applies pressure onto the horse’s head at the poll and to the corners of the mouth. These bits are often used with two reins. They should never be used as a replacement for correct schooling. The Pelham Family. The pelham was created to have a similar effect as a double bridle but in one bit. It should be used with two reins, the top rein is the snaffle rein and the bottom rein is the curb rein. The curb rein when used applies pressure to the poll and chin curb groove. It is not a bit for a novice rider and a rider should have an independent seat and good hands before using a pelham. You will also find in this family the kimblewick which can be slotted or plain. These are supplied with a curb chain and these must be fitted correctly or they can inflict terrible injuries. There are substitutes for curb chains that have a milder effect these are made from leather or elastic. There are also a range of chain guards available. The Double. Here the horse is ridden in two bits a snaffle bit (a bradoon) and a curb bit with curb chain. The two bits have their own set of reins and each bit is used independently. A double bridle is only used for advanced riding e.g. for dressage it is not compulsory until you reach Advanced level.
Hackamore or Bitless Bridle. This bit works by using pressure on the poll and nose. There are a range of designs and styles and some are mild in there action and some are very severe. The longer the shanks are the more severe. Great care is needed when fitting this bridle as incorrectly fitted it can interfere with the horse’s breathing. It is essential that the rider has good hands when riding in a bitless bridle.
Martingales The purpose of a martingale is to prevent the horse from lifting his head above an acceptable level. They should not be used to replace proper training or as a cure, but as a support in difficult situations with the aim to discard it’s use in the future. However we do not live in an ideal world, some horse did not receive a good education as youngsters, others may need a martingale as a back up for if they become over excitable. There are different types of martingales some act with the bit others with the noseband. If you are not sure how to fit them get professional advice as in-correctly fitting martingales can cause the horse discomfort and to work in-correctly.
Running Martingale – This is the most widely used martingale. It prevents the horse from raising his head by acting on the action of bit and the reins by pulling the head down. It is essential that the martingale is fitted correctly. The rings of the martingale should be able to touch the horses jaw when his head is in the rested position and the rings should nearly be able to reach the withers. The reins must be fitted with stops to prevent the rings getting caught on the rein’s billets / buckles. The Bib Martingale is a running martingale with a leather insert between the branches of the martingale. It helps prevent the danger of the martingale straps getting caught by the horse getting hold of the straps.
Standing Martingale - The standing martingale is attached to the bridle by the cavesson noseband and applies pressure to the nose to prevent the horse lifting his head too high. The martingale must be fitted correctly. When the horse is standing in a relaxed position and the martingale is fitted check the fit by putting your hand underneath the martingale and you should be able to push the slack up into the horse’s gullet. It can be too restrictive for horses to wear jumping.
Hunting Breastplate – Is similar in design to a martingale, however it also attaches to the saddle’s D rings. It helps prevent the saddle slipping. It also allows for the fitting of standing and running martingale attachments.
Irish Martingale – is a simple short leather strap with a ring at each end. It is used to keep the reins together incase of a fall.
Gadgets There are a number of schooling / training aids available and here as a collective they will be referred to as gadgets. Used expertly in experienced, sensitive hands they can provide solutions to schooling problems for individual horses. In in-experienced hands gadgets can cause real harm and should not be used as a substitute for correct schooling. If you are not sure how to fit them get professional advice as in-correctly fitting schooling / training aids can cause the horse discomfort and to work in-correctly.
Market Harborough - This training aid is used to encourage a horse to work correctly and should only be used by experienced riders as it relies on rider skill. As it should be used in conjunction with other aids as it has a very strong action on the bit. It should be used with a mild bit such as a snaffle. The martingale fastens to the girth, travels between the front legs and divides into two narrow straps that pass through the bit rings. At the end of these straps there is a small clip hook which clips to reins which have small D-rings attached. The martingale should be fitted so that when the horse has his head in the correct position the martingale is slack and the contact to the horse’s mouth is from the reins only. It should only come into play when the horse raises his head. Fitted too tight can cause a horse to over bend.
Draw Reins / Running Reins – Should be used with care as they are designed to encourage the horse to become supple and soft in the poll, to flex and stretch down. The rider must use the draw reins with other aids and have a good understanding of how the whole horse must work correctly through its’ whole body. Used incorrectly the horse’s head will be pulled in and the horse will be reluctant to use their hindquarters correctly.
Side Reins - Side reins are used to encourage the horse to stretch and make contact with the bit during lungeing. They should never be used to force the horse's head into position as it can result in the horse using the wrong muscles. The side reins are about 2 metres long and have a clip at one end to attach to the bit and a buckle and loop at the other end. The buckle and loop end attaches to the lunge roller or the girth straps of the saddle. Side reins should be parallel to the ground when fitted and the horse’s head and neck should be in a similar position as to when ridden. Side reins must be fitted carefully and introduced to a horse with care. The side reins should not be used during lunging until the horse is relaxed and fully warmed up, until then they should be clipped to the roller or saddle.
Chambon – This is used for working the horse on the lunge to encourage the horse to work in a long and low outline. It works by using a pulley action on the poll and mouth, the pressure is released when the horse lowers its’ head. Before using a chambon your horse should be confident and well trained on the lunge. The horse should be fully warmed up and relaxed before using the chambon. It should only be used for short periods of time as used correctly it works all the muscles hard. If you are in-experienced always get professional advice before using a chambon.
De Gouge – This is a more advanced version of the chambon and it can be used for both working the horse on the lunge and when ridden. It should only be used by an experienced rider with tact.
Harbridge Training Aid - This consists of two straps with elastic inserts that clips on to the bit rings and the other end attaches to the girth strap between the horses legs. The rider needs to ensure the horse is working correctly through out its’ whole body for this training aid to be effective.
Elastic Training Aids - There are a number of elastic training aids available to be used when lunging or when riding. They are designed to give and allow the horse more freedom as they apply less pressure.
Training Systems - There are a number of training systems designed to be used on the lunge. They have been designed to encourage development of the back muscles, and top line. They should be used by experienced handlers as when lunging the handler must ensure the horse moves correctly.
Flexi Reins – a flexi rein has an elastic insert which encourages the horse to flex his poll and neck.
Grass / Daisy Rein – This rein is useful for greedy horses / ponies that pull on the reins to get at the grass while being ridden. The rein attaches to the saddle and the other end to the bridle.
It is advised that you never try to replace correct schooling with a gadget. However with skill, tact and careful knowledgeable use they have a place. Always gain professional advice if you have a problem with your horse. Make sure your horse is in good health, not suffering pain or discomfort as this can cause a horse to playing up or effect his performance.
There are a wide range of rugs available for horses. There are winter turn out rugs, stable rugs, day rugs, traveling rugs, sweat / wicking rugs, summer fly rugs, exercise sheets etc….It can be a bit confusing as to which rugs you need for your horse.
Factors to Consider:-
Types of Rugs As with all rugs it is important that the rug fits correctly and is comfortable for your horse. The rug should fit snugly around the horse’s neck so it does not slip back onto the withers or rub the shoulders. The length of the rug should finish at the tail with the tail flap covering the top part of the tail. Most rugs have adjustable fittings and it is important these are adjusted correctly following the manufactures instructions. Rugs are manufactured in a range of sizes and usually sold in length in 3 inch increments. To work out your horse’s size - measure your horse in a straight line from the centre of his chest to the furthest point on his hind quarters.
Turn Out Rugs A turn out rug is designed for your horse to wear when turned out in the paddock. They are used to keep your horse clean, dry and warm. Turn out rugs are available in light weight (with no filling), Medium light weight (approx 100 gram filling) Medium weight (approx 200 - 250 gram filling), Heavy weight (approx 300 – 400 gram filling). A horse that lives out will need to have his rug checked twice daily as a rug that has slipped can cause injury. A minimum number of turn out rugs required is at least two as wet rugs need to be removed to be dried and replaced with a dry rug.
Stable Rugs These are used to keep your horse warm and clean in his stable. Stable rugs are available as summer sheets / day rug / light weight (with no filling), Medium light weight (approx 100 gram filling) Medium weight (approx 200 - 250 gram filling), Heavy weight (approx 300 – 400 gram filling).
Sweat Rugs / Wicking Rugs / Cooler Rugs These rugs are used to cool off and dry horses after exercise. They range from a the sweat rug string vest type design that works by trapping pockets of air to wicking rugs made with fabrics that draw moisture from the horse’s body through the rug to condense on the top surface of the rug.
Traveling Rugs
Traveling rugs offer your horse protection during transporting. They are available in a wide range of styles, designs and colours. They should be breathable and many wicking rugs make execellent traveling rugs.
Summer Fly Rugs These are designed to been worn while the horse is in his paddock, they protect the horse from the nuisance of flies, and some also offer protection for the horse’s coat from fading from exposure to the sun.
Exercise Sheets An exercise rug is used when riding, they are available in a range of designs, colours (including high visibility) and in waterproof and non waterproof materials. To measure your horse for an exercise sheet take the measurements from the withers to the top of the tail.
There are many designs, styles and colours available and coming soon to the site will be links to other websites for you to check out the latest designs and styles.
Horses have evolved to survive without the need to wear protective boots. However due to the demands we place on our horses the use of boots can be a benefit to protect the horse’s legs from injury. Boots have become very popular and they are used during every day riding activities, schooling, competing and turn out. Modern boots for horses have had extensive research undertaken. Many boots use innovative materials, with properties such as high impact absorption, extra stretch, breathable, mould-ability etc… It is important that boots are fitted correctly, too tight and they will cause pressure injuries and too lose they will slip or rub. As boots vary from each manufacturer it is important to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines when fitting. There are many designs and styles of boots available and the choice of the correct boots for your horse will depend on several factors:-
Below is some basic information on the types of boots commonly available to help you decide which ones would be appropriate for your horse. If you are in doubt about which types of boots your horse may need, please get professional advice.
Types of Boots
Brushing Boots The brushing boot is one of the most popular boots used today. They are designed to protect the inside of the leg from knocking from the opposite leg. Brushing boots are designed to have a protective shield for the inside of the leg. When fitted correctly they should sit just below the fetlock joint on the inside of the leg. They are useful for every day riding and lunging.
Speedicut Boots Speedicut boots are similar to brushing boots except they extend further up the leg. They are useful for horses that brush badly.
Tendon Boots Tendon boots are designed to protect the horse’s tendons on the front legs from injury. They are often used for fast work and jumping. Some designs are open fronted.
Sports Boots These boots give support and protection to the lower leg’s ligaments and to the fetlock joint. They are useful for horses that require more protection or to be used when horses are in intensive training.
Exercise Wraps Exercise wraps are designed as an alternative to exercise bandages. They provide gentle support and protection.
Fetlock Boots These boots are designed just to protect the fetlock joints on the hind legs.
Over-reach Boots Over-reach boots are designed to protect the heel and coronet. They are bell shaped and fit over the horse’s hoof. The old fashioned design was a rubber pull on bell boot - there are now a range of designs with easy fastenings in a range of materials. When selecting over-reach boots make sure it is not too long as the horse could tread on it.
Knee Boots Knee boots are used to protect the horse’s knees from injury while being exercised on hard surfaces. They fasten above the knee with the buckle to the outside and this strap must be fitted securely to prevent the boot from slipping. The lower strap is then fastened very loosely to allow the joint to freely flex. There are also brushing boots designed with knee pads incorporated into the design.
Hock Boots These are used to protect the horse during transit and have largely been replaced with traveling boots.
Pastern Wraps The pastern wrap protects the pastern area form knocks and cuts.
Turn Out Chaps / Wraps There is a range of designs available offering protection from injuries and to help prevent mud fever.
Stable Chaps / Wraps These are designed to keep horses legs warm, dry and protected while in the stable. Some designs help to dry wet legs and others claim to relieve the symptoms of arthritis.
Hoof Boots There are a range of boots available for horse’s hooves. Some are designed to be used when the horse is ridden and can be used as a replacement to having metal shoes fitted. Other hoof boot designs are suitable for treating hoof complaints (e.g. holding a hoof police in place).
Travel Boots Travel boots are designed to be worn by horses during transportation. They provide horse’s with maximum protection for their legs from just above the knee and hocks down to the coronet. Travel boots provide a quick and easy alternative to travel bandages and travel bandage pads.
There is a fantastic range of horse boots available in many designs, styles and colours. Coming soon to the site will be links to other websites for you to check out the latest innovations, designs and styles.
You can take steps to help prevent your belongings from being stolen. On this page we will highlight a few simple steps you or livery yard can take. It will also be useful for you to check these out when selecting a livery yard to keep your horse.
Gateways The first line of defense is the gate to the property. A strong well secured gate will act as a deterrent. The gate should be secured at the opening side with a strong lock and chain. The hinge side needs securing as gates can be lifted off their hinges and opened. It is good practice to take the same security measures the yard gate.
Tack The tack room is often a target for thieves. Therefore the tack room needs to be strongly constructed and the access door needs to be strong and secured with a study lock. There are many products on the market to improve the security of the tack room these include door grills, intruder alarms, security lighting, security cameras etc… The yard needs to adopt a security code of practice of locking the door when not in use. In side the tack room you can secure your belongings inside locked tack boxes / tack safes that are bolted to the walls, there are several designs on the market. There are cheaper alternatives e.g. saddle racks with built in locks. There are security identification kits available for marking your property. Keep an inventory of your equipment and keep it at home. The display of signs advising that security measures are in place can also act as deterrent. Tools and equipment should be stored where they cannot be used to force entry.
Coming soon is the Tack Room Directory. It is currently under construction and it will contain links to companies and organisations that will be able to provide advice on tack, equipment and horse clothing. You will also find links to companies that can give you information on products or services that maybe of interest to you.
If you are interested in promoting your company / organisation it’s products or services in the Tack Room Directory please click here to contact us. The National Horse and Pony Network is able to offer companies / organisations a whole page entry in the directory, this can include text and images and a link to your website.
Do you want to take advantage of sponsoring the National Horse and Pony Network? The package would include advertising space at the end of each page on the site. Interested? Please contact us.
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